An Introduction

Last weekend I was invited to the Introduction ceremony of the tea estate's IT Manager to one of the women from the factory's tasting room. This is not an "introduction" in its literal meaning. This is a traditional Ugandan ceremony that joins a couple in matrimony. It is legally binding and the two live as man and wife after the ceremony. Many couples here also have a church wedding, but that could take place years following their introduction. For this couple, their wedding is scheduled for next June. 

The event was quite elaborate with traditional costumes, dances, and rituals. Of course the entire ceremony was spoken in Rotooro so I didn't understand any of it. The group I went with kept me up to speed for the most part, but really, it was like listening to the Peanut's adults talk for six hours. Yes, six hours! I've discovered that one of the things Ugandan love to do is talk. Oh boy, give them a microphone and they will talk and talk and talk. 

The original intent of the ceremony was the introduction of the man to the girl's family to negotiate a price for the hand of the daughter. Usually there were livestock  offered along with a sum of money. In more affluent families I suspect this is all for show and good fun; "you are worth three cows, my dear". The sad truth, so I've been told, is that some girls are married off against their will for financial gain. This is usually a young girl to an older man and it is not due to greediness of the girl's family, but due to desperation. Thankfully the ceremony I witnessed was not such a case. 

In the first part of the ceremony, a group of young girls were paraded out so the groom, best man, and the men of the groom's family could "look" for the bride. The looking entailed the men walking by each if the girls and shaking their heads to say she was not the one. Then they gave them little gifts and sent them away. Obviously the bride was not among those girls. 

Then another group of girls, these ones a bit older, were paraded out. Again the groom and his party "looked" for his intended bride. She was not in this group either so gifts were given out and the girls were sent away. 

Finally the bridal party was paraded out and the groom identified his choice. Gifts were given and everyone danced. 

These professions dancers absolutely amazed me. It was a wonder how they kept their hips moving so their grass/fur wraps kept movement to the beat if the music. 

After the entertainment came lunch and then the bridal party returned wearing their wedding costumes. 

The men did a crazy half dance/half march toward the women. The groom was the one with flowers on his lapel, walking right behind the closest man wearing a gown. I beleive that man was the groom's father because was the one that did all of the talking during the negotiation part if the ceremony. 

Here come the men dancing up to the women. There were more speeches and then papers to sign. Then the happy couple cut the cake and everyone brought up gifts. 

And that, my friends, is a Ugandan Introduction. 

Home from Training

I've just returned from two weeks of  training in Entebbe with the other volunteers from my cohort. It was good to see everyone and for the most part, they all seem happy with their sites. The training was good, mostly relevant for what I'll be doing over the next 22 months, but tonight, I'm happy to be home. Well, happy to be back at my home-away-from-home, home. 

Here is a picture of a typical road in Kampala, taken from the window of a bus. It took us nearly two hours just to get out of the city. I will never get used to Kampala and will try my hardest to stay away from there for the remainder of my stay in Uganda. Unfortunately, all roads lead to Kampala so to get anywhere in this country you must pass through the city center. Nothing bypasses the city. That's means you have to take a bus or a taxi into the city, change buses or taxies, or figure out how change from bus to taxi or taxi to bus, then fight your way back out of the city. And remember, a taxi in Uganda is a mini van stuffed to the gills with people, luggage, sacs of potatoes, chickens, etcetera... not a comfy sedan all to yourself. And it has a route it sticks to, so you may be walking the final stretch to get to your destination. 

Today, I actually had a hassle free commute. I took a taxi from Entebbe where our training was held to Kampale, then a quick walk from where the taxi dropped me off to the bus park, bussed it five hours to Rogumbe, then hung out for about an hour for a driver from the tea estate to pick me up. Rogumbe to home was about a 45-minute drive and the driver brought me right to me door. Ah, such luxury! All told, nine hours and I'm back in my comfy little cottage surrounded by tea fields. 

I promised you a picture of the butcher, here it is. I took this while I was waiting for the estate's driver to pick me up in Rogumbe. I'm not exaggerating, the carcasses are just hung outside, apparently no covering or refrigeration is needed. I have no intention of buying meat over here. I have eaten it when someone else has prepared it, like at training venues or in restaurants, and I haven't gotten sick, but I won't buy and cook it for myself. Not doing the chicken either because they don't come pre-plucked! Sounds like I'll be doing lots of beans or egg dishes for my dinners. 

Kyarusozi

Here are a few pictures from Kyarusozi, a trading center right outside of the gates to the tea estate. Every Friday is market day so this is where I will go for my produce each week. This area is also where three of the four schools that I will teach at are located (the fourth one is located on the tea estate). Today I went to talk with the head teacher of one of the primary schools. I took these two pictures on my walk home from the school. All of the schools I have visited have been very welcoming; free help, why wouldn't they be. Hopefully I will start health classes with their students next semester. 

As you can see from the picture, it is not much of a town. Well, it is not a town so I've been told many times, it is called a trading center. The people who live here are very poor and are only able to sustain themselves by selling products and services to the workers from the tea estate. There are a few shops, a tailor, a beauty salon, a bike repair shop, but not much else. So far I have not found any restaurants, just guys making rolex (chapati with fried egg) and mondazi (fried dough) on the side if the road. It seems that most weeks I will be able to ride with the clinic car into Fort Portal to do some shopping and get my fill of muzungu food. I think I am too spoiled to make due with the few items I can find here. 

In this picture, the venders have started to set up for market day. I tried to get a picture of the butcher but he wanted me to pay him for his picture. He was quite rude about it, a grumpy old man, so I kept walking. He probably took one look at me and knew I was not going to buy any if his dusty fly covered meat anyway. Therefore, he was not willing to humour me with a picture. Oh well, I'd rather make friends with the ladies who sell pineapples and bananas. 

Honestly, these people here are a bit intimidating. Most do not speak English and when I try to communicate, it seems as if they are yelling at me. The Rotooro language sounds harsh to my ears - rapid sharp notes - and they talk loud and forcefully. The majority of the venders are not what you would call soft-spoken. Ha, I guess a soft spoken vender would not make many sales and would soon be out of business. 

Another thing that I find intimidating is the bargaining. I hate it. I want an item to have a price tag and I will pay that price. If I think it is too expensive, I simply leave it on the shelf. Here you ask the price, "sente zingaha?" And whatever they tell you, offer them half. Then you argue for about 15 minutes, then you pay something inbetween the two initial offers. Or if you are me, you pay way more than should have and walk away knowing that you have been cheated. I know they are fighting to survive so I will try not to get too upset. After all, I can afford their hiked up prices, and if it's too crazy, I can just walk away. Chances are I didn't need the item that badly anyway. 

I'm sure you can tell, I'm not impressed with Kyarusozi! Oh well, tomorrow I leave for two weeks of training with the other 45 volunteers at a training center near Kampala. It will be good to see the other volunteers again and compare stories about our sites. I'm sure some have nicer surroundings than I do, but many will have much worse. Kyarusozi may not be much to look at but the tea estate is awesome!

Omuceeri n Ebihimba

You know you're a city girl when you buy fresh beans at the market and are surprised to find that two days later, they have sprouted!

Eck, now what do I do with them? In the states, I always bought canned beans and they never grew tails! A quick internet search taught me that you can still cook them and they may actually be better for you than dried beans. They are easier on the digestive system in this form since the complex sugars have begun to break down during the sprouting process. I also learned that sprouted beans have an increased protein content and a decreased carbohydrate content. This is great news for me since I will be eating mostly vegetarian during my stay here; I can't stand the open air butchers with their slabs of meat hanging in dirty wooden shacks on the side of the road. I'll get a picture soon, you just won't believe it. They even leave the tails with fur on the body to prove what type of animal you are getting. I prefer my meat neatly trimmed and wrapped in cellophane, thank you (that was the city girl talking again). 

Back to my accidentally sprouted beans; I made the best beans I have tasted, ever! I ate two bowls, they were so good. I'll give you my recipe, but it really isn't a recipe because I do not have measuring cups or spoons here, I just added things and did lots of taste tests during the cooking process.

 

Ingredients:

-cooking oil

-garlic

-red onions

-carrots

-hot red chilly pepper

-tomato paste

-beef seasoning/bouillon 

-sprouted beans

-salt and pepper

Heat cooking oil in large pan (maybe 2 tbsp). Add garlic (minced, I used a whole head because I love garlic) and onions (finely diced, here they grow tiny red ones, not much bigger than the garlic, I used about twice as much onion as garlic). Sauté that a few minutes. Add carrot (two small ones, finely diced). Sauté a few more minutes. Add tomato paste (one small can), beef seasoning, and water (sorry, no measurements, I just kept adding till it looked right). Bring to a simmer then add the sprouted beans. Add enough water to completely cover beans. Bring to a boil then simmer for an hour or two, until the beans are soft. Add salt and pepper to taste. As I was making mine, it tasted a bit bland so I got a red chilly pepper from the garden next door, with permission of course. I don't really know what kind of pepper it was, but it was hot. One tiny pepper, seeded and minced, for the entire pot of beans was perfect. Red pepper flakes or ground Cheyenne pepper would work the same I suppose, depending on how spicy you like your food. Serve over rice. 

Whala. You have omuceeri n ebihimba (rice and beans, Ugandan style). 

My House

Finally, I have moved into the house I will call home for the next 23 months. I absolutely love it. I've lucked into much better accommodations than most of the volunteers. I have electricity and running water, though both have gone out numerous times during my first three days. I don't have hot water so I have been boiling water for bathing; I much prefer hot bucket baths to cold showers. I am blessed beyond belief to have a gas stove and oven, I can bake bread and cookies and casseroles! And, wait for it... I have a frig with freezer!!!! It's a tiny college dormroom type frig with freezer, but I'm thrilled I can buy dairy products and make ice cubes. Hahaha, it's the little things in life, can you image giving up your frig in the States!?

Here is the before picture. I was a bit miffed when I first saw it, but that's how the locals live. Can you see the little girl on the left? She lives on the other side of the duplex with her mom and two brothers. Cute kids. The mom is the worker at the executive guest house that is next door. She is very nice and I think will be a big help in getting me adjusted to my new surroundings. 

Here is my house now. Nice, huh? I'll take beautiful glass windows over wooden shutters any day, even though I ended up spending most of my moving in allowance on curtains. The workers even put up a bamboo fence to keep the kids out. The fence is still only half finished... may take another month for that to be done at the rate these guys work. Before and after pictures of the yard  will come later. Right now it is all dirt but I plan to grow my own vegetables and maybe put some flowers around the porch. It will be awesome. 

Here is the view from the front door. As you can see, I still need furniture, but I have enough to be comfortable. I don't have a before picture of the interior. Essentially it was empty, they completely built the kitchen from scratch, and of course the windows weren't there, the floor was torn up, and the ceiling had water damage; it was vacant for years and just left to rot. Anyway, all better now. The bathroom is the door on the left (yes, western style toilet, no pit latrine for me) and the bedroom is on the right. There are actually two bedrooms on the right, so guests are welcome. I was able to get beds, now I just need a table and maybe some better chairs for the living room. Oh yeah, and a rug, cement floors are cold... I still cannot believe how cold it gets here. We've entered rainy season so it's damp and chilly. I'm told it will stay that way until January so I must invest in blankets and socks. 

This awesome tree behind my house is home to a family of owls. How lucky am I, lizards and owls and tons and tons of birds. 

Now I guess I need to get to work, start earning my keep around here. I still have not started any projects. I can't figure out how to get the ball rolling and the culture seems to be very non-confrontational. Nobody has asked me to do anything yet (none of the Ugandans that is, Peace Corps staff is a different story) and I get the impression that I could easily let two years slip by without making any significant impact. I need to get aggressive about doing something that qualifies as supporting Peace Corps goals. 

Save that for another day though, right now I think I'll take a stroll through the tea fields, look at the birds, and greet some locals in Rotooro... because greetings are all I know, my language skills are bad! After the "hi, how are ya", I keep walking. 

Strange Critters

Check out these guys... we have birds, moths, and lizards in the States, but not like these!

These storks are lovingly referred to as trash birds. And by the way, Uganda does not hide it's trash, huge piles like this one are everywhere. 

Best looking moth I've run into yet!

Sorry this one is a bit out of focus, but my iPhone camera does not do well when I try to zoom. This lizard lives in the tree in front of my house. I've seen him several times. I just love his colors, teal head, brown body, and a tan and blue tail. How strange. I'll try to get a better close up when I have time to just sit under the tree with my phone/camera at the ready. I know lizards eat bugs, but I wonder if he would like a banana... I could try to make friends :)

Ndali Lodge and Crater Lake

During Welcone Weekend (seasoned volunteers welcome new volunteers with a weekend party), a group of us went to Ndali Lodge for an afternoon of relaxation. The lodge overlooks one of the many crater lakes in the western region of Uganda. It was beautiful, but way out of budget on a volunteer's salary! Thankfully the owners do not mind day visitors, especially the ones that purchase drinks from the bar during their stay. I tried a rum drink made with hybiscus nectar, orange bitters, and soda water called a Pink Sparkler. Wow, it was awesome, I wonder if we can find hybiscus nectar in the states?

Ndali Lodge, Fort Portal, Uganda

A crater lake. I'm not sure how many are in the area, from what I gather, many. It was nice to look at, but the banks were too steep for me to get down to the water's edge. I guess that's just how it is when a crater fills up with water!

PCVs settling into the deck that overlooks the lake. I could have spent an entire afternoon up there sipping rum drinks. 

Some volunteers did venture down to the lake, but the path was too steep for me. My fear of heights is getting worse as I get older. If there is no railing, I'm not going. The picture really does not do the trail justice... it was steep! I was much happier on level ground admiring the gardens around the lodge. 

Ha, reminds me of FL. This picture could have been taken in Dad's yard. 

My Rotooro language group, minus Coy, who was there, not sure why he missed the picture, maybe he was sleeping off some of the previous night's festivities... good times had by all :)